Landscape Edging is more than black plastic with a tube on top.

Garden bed edging serves as a distinct boundary that separates gardens from lawns, walkways, and driveways, enhancing both functionality and aesthetics in landscaping. Now everybody will say what to use, how to install it, colors, and so on for garden edging. Just like plants and designs, people choose to have in their yard, the edging choice is up to personal likes and dislikes. Pros and cons of having edging. Maintenance of edging and types of garden edging.

Pros vs. Cons- Going to list the common points.

Pros-     Easier trimming of grass, if tall enough (i.e. just trimming in a horizonal motion, less need to follow trimming in a vertical motion.) But if a low profile or low set edging is used then you still have to trim what lays over the edging. I don’t just say let the mower deck hang over the edging to use the airflow to lift grass laying down. Check Con section for why.

Mulch or stone doesn’t wash out and mix into other areas as much since the edging (if high enough) keeps material separated.

If the edging is set deep enough, it will reduce grass roots growing into non grass areas.

If tall enough, keeps grass clippings from getting blown into non grass areas.

No need to have the garden beds edged every year or during the season.

Cons-     Installing is time consuming and can be expensive to install.

Can be pulled out, shift or settle and needing to be redone.

Doesn’t keep grass and weeds from growing in non-grass areas.

Bed material still washes out.

Can’t let the mower deck hang over the edging and not need to trim after mowing, without hitting the edging with the mower blades causing damage.

No Edging at all-       An edge defined by shrubs and trees preventing grass from growing underneath them creating an edge between the lawn and the garden.  

The edging defined by shrubs and trees is low cost, low maintenance, and natural looking, sometimes you can see this in maintained landscapes. But when these shrubs and trees either have dead lower limbs or completely dies, then grass and weeds are allowed to start growing underneath, creates another area to trim or reach under upper branches and going over roots and other debris. I do like having shrubs and trees with limbs low to the ground making a natural edge and is easy to maintain along wooded areas, just not close to houses or buildings (pest problems and poor airflow against the siding).

Hand dug edge-      A traditional edge and most likely other names. Soil is removed between the lawn and garden. Usually, has a sharp edge along the lawn edge with a sharp or gently upward slope into the garden. Many people say this is “THE” garden edge and so on and so on. There are numerous tools and machines to create this edge, however you like it done is your choice. Removing soil and debris every year or every other year and moving it somewhere on the property or dispose of it off the property adds to the cost of doing a hand dug edge.

Using a garden bed edging attachment. Instead of hand digging the edge.

Now I spent some years doing landscaping on and around Cape Cod and the amount of time and effort to do a hand dug edge in the area was more than I had seen before. Which lead me to call it “The Cape Cod edge”, now starts the same as the hand dug edge, but the slope into the garden bed is very gentle which requires to remove mulch and soil a foot or more into the garden bed. First time doing this extra soil needs to be removed so when mulch or stone is spread the low area next to the lawn is still low. But doing this edge adds extra time and a lot of soil and debris removed each year.

I do offer “The Cape Cod Edge”, but depending on budget I edge the garden bed making a trough, if customers want to, I rake back the mulch and cut the edge of the trough off with a shovel creating a gentle slope into the garden bed and rake back the mulch or spread new mulch along the edge. Having a hand dug edge with decorative stone in the bed takes more time dealing with the edge and stone mixing together.

Maintaining edging-        Depending on the edging changes maintenance needs. Plastic and metal edging may need to be adjusted if it shifted or replaced if hit by mower blades or trimmer damage. Or paint if faded from the sun.

Natural stone or concrete edging may need to be washed, reset, or redo the joints with mortar or glue.

Hand dug edging would need to be redone every year or other year and touched up during the season.

Additional work may need to be done depending on the size of the edging material used.

Smaller edging material can be easily moved around after being installed. Run over by lawnmowers and other wheeled equipment. Grass will grow over, under, and through needing extra trimming and mulch or stone can be washed over it. This just adds to maintenance instead of lowering it. Larger edging can be set deeper and more surface area if you want to use mortar or glue to join them together all of which makes them harder to move around once installed. Being set deeper and taller than the grass reduces trimming and keeping the grass in the lawn not in non-grass areas, of course the height will keep mulch and stone in the bed not the lawn. Yes, bigger material does have a higher cost, but over time less maintenance out ways the cost.

Types of edging-       Plastic……now plastic edging was always the color black and had the round tube on top that would be easy to see and damage with mowers and trimmers. At that time the tube on top is what kept the plastic rigid, but now plastic is made differently…...without the tube on top.

Now you have more color options, the finish can have a wood grain texture or smooth, thick as a 2X4 or 4X4 timbers. Some options are no-dig options so very rocky soils can have edging, not needing a trench dug out for other plastic edging. A ribbed type is made and is to be installed like most metal edgings, the top edge is set even with the soil surface only visible from the garden bed side.

Metal edging- Has some color choices, usually installed with the top edge even with the soil surface and only visible form the garden side. Sometimes setting half the edging into the soil and the other half above ground and surface holding mulch and stone in the garden bed.

Wooden edging-     Can be 2X4, 4X4 or bigger up to 8X8, “Railroad Ties”, or sawmill cutoffs (from squaring up the logs these are the pieces that still have the bark on them). Usually treated for ground contact, (except the sawmill cutoffs). (DON’T USE TREATED LUMBER NEAR FOOD GARDEN PLOTS!), the chemicals in the treatment effect the soil and can be absorbed into edible plants and make you sick. Good for straight bed edges, can make curves cutting many angles. Can finish them with paint stain or just natural weathering. May have to dig to set timbers or use long spikes or rebar to keep in place.

Concrete blocks used as garden bed edging.

Concrete curbing or blocks-     Lots of choices with concrete products, colors, textures, size, or a poured curbing. The curbing is mixed and then poured through a machine for shapes. To enhance the aesthetic appeal of your concrete, consider stamping it for added texture or exploring a wide choice of paint colors. Concrete blocks can be incredibly versatile, available in designs resembling wooden timbers, cobblestone paths, or bricks, adding diverse character to landscaping. Concrete is far more exciting today, available in a rich palette of colors beyond traditional gray, allowing for creative landscaping designs. Not just concrete gray anymore. Some base prep needed, remove topsoil down to subsoil or clay, compact subsoil, lay fabric over the subsoil, followed by a layer of process mix gravel or sand before setting. Poured Curbing can crack due to excessive movement.

Natural stone used as garden bed edging.

Natural stones- Often come in irregular sizes; embrace their unique shapes to design a personalized layout, or consider cutting them for a consistent look. However, while natural stone typically comes at a higher price, utilizing unwanted stones may offset costs. Some base prep, remove topsoil down to subsoil or clay, compact subsoil, lay fabric over the subsoil, followed by a layer of process mix gravel or sand before setting just like for concrete edging.

Rubber-     Some color choices, shapes are currently a flat board or an "L" shape. The 'L' shape design is intended to accommodate the lawnmower wheel, reducing the need for further trimming around the garden. While rubber edging offers various color options, it can become hot when exposed to sunlight and may fade over time.

Numerous creative methods exist for setting edging in your landscaping projects, allowing for unique personalization possibilities. Moreover, there are a plethora of innovative edging materials and designs available beyond traditional black plastic with a tube on top.